An adventurous start to the journey

The ferry journey from Hirtshals to Tórshavn turned out to be the biggest positive surprise. With two boys just under 10 years old, I was curious how it would go. I've always personally enjoyed ferry rides and find something adventurous about them, and it truly turned out to be a fantastic start to our trip. Especially the outdoor hot tubs with views of the endless blue Atlantic horizon, and the lavish buffet, where you can fill yourself with everything from langoustines to roast lamb and homemade salads, were favourites. 

The ferry was cosily decorated with historical photos and informative texts on the walls, sparking interesting conversations about alternative ways of living. Passing by the Shetland Islands and small islands off the Norwegian coast, there was a contagious curiosity on deck. People stood with binoculars and camera zoom lenses, excitedly pointing out and discussing what we passed by. 

Having lived alternatively in our camper for over a year, we hadn't had a proper journey like this until now. I think we might have been particularly lucky with the weather—it was a very calm trip all the way.

The Faroe Islands… the perfect choice

The 18 manageable islands of the Faroe Islands are indeed stunningly green and wild. However, weather showing them at their best comes and goes. It’s all about being in the right place at the right time here. Therefore, it's truly perfect to drive around with a campervan between the islands. It naturally allows you to chase the driest weather conditions.

As soon as you leave Tórshavn, you quickly find yourself far away from facilities like food, drinks, and toilets. Regarding the latter, privacy is scarce on the grassy slopes along the roads, making it especially convenient always to have your own toilet.

The roads are fine to drive on. You quickly get used to giving way to sheep and pulling aside for oncoming traffic on narrow roads. Speeds are naturally lower when driving a campervan on winding roads, giving you more time to enjoy the views. In fact, the elevated seating position in the camper offers an even more spectacular view of the coastal cliffs. You can see clearly over guardrails and better down the mountainsides towards the water.

 

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    Which island to Choose?

    We felt that Eysturoy has it all. Heading north, you find dramatic views with steep slopes and winding roads. To the south, the landscape flattens out, and the atmosphere becomes more rural. However, you don't really need to choose. Most of the islands are well-connected, making it easy to drive and see several famous beautiful places in a single day. The islands are breathtakingly beautiful in many places, so it’s best to accept you’ll have to prioritise what to visit. 

    We particularly enjoyed camping in Gjógv. It’s a lovely location with a charming atmosphere. From here, you can easily access the starting point for the hike up Slættaratindur, which, at 880 metres, is the highest mountain in the Faroe Islands. The name means "flat mountain summit," and it's featured in the Guinness Book of Records for offering the longest line of sight in the world—550 km all the way to Vatnajökull in Iceland, due to atmospheric refraction effects. We curiously observed those on their way up and had brief chats with hikers coming down. It looked manageable, but the boys were somewhat tired of hiking at that moment, so that adventure is still waiting for us.

    Another advantage of Gjógv is that the village reportedly often has sunshine, especially when southern winds pull a blanket of fog over many other interesting spots.

     

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      The world's smallest capital

      It doesn't take long to walk through the main street here, and shopping options are limited for a capital city. But there’s everything you need, and in a way, it feels authentic and refreshing that Tórshavn hasn’t become yet another capital designed just for tourists. The SMS shopping centre offers great milkshakes and tasty food. The local swimming pool provides diving boards, ice-cold dips, and optional jacuzzi sessions. Near the town's beach, there are good fishing opportunities, and when fog or rain settles in, at least three cosy cafés in town offer delicious coffee and cakes. Don’t miss out on strolling through the old town, feeling the sense of history in the narrow alleyways among colourful wooden houses. Start your walk, for example, at Undir Ryggi, where several houses have grass roofs, and it feels as if time has stood still.

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        Practical tips

        Being prepared for weather changes is crucial for a good experience. Clothing layers come on and off constantly throughout the day, so wearing multiple layers along with always having a hat is advisable. Naturally, waterproof outer layers and footwear are essential. Wool was also a natural choice because it remains warm even when damp. Wool was present in socks, hats, and base layers close to the skin.

        We prioritised campsites that were sheltered and relatively close to places we wanted to visit. This made it easier to take advantage of weather breaks. All the campsites we visited had friendly owners, making arrival coordination easy. They typically offer similar basic amenities, but especially the larger site in Vestmanna offered good shelter, was central for excursions, and had a comfortable common room. It was also reasonably priced.

        Tunnels save a lot of travel time. Thanks to recent new tunnels, seven of the islands and about 90% of the population are now connected by land. It's easier than ever to experience a lot with a campervan. The natural scenery on the islands can be quite similar, but specific areas highlight distinct variations, like travelling from the flat landscapes of Sandoy to the dramatic northern parts of Eysturoy. The journey from Tórshavn to the northern islands in the east also offers beautiful encounters with varying atmospheres and views.

        The Faroe Islands have excellent roads, and even with a campervan, it’s easy to drive on small winding roads along the coast, out to tiny villages, as well as on main roads. Allow yourself some nights on the intimate campsites right by the sea, where you can enjoy the ocean air alongside morning coffee, freshly baked croissants from your Omnia oven, and where the ever-changing light provides natural entertainment. Expect simple facilities, firm ground at campsites, and minimal opportunities to purchase items you might suddenly need. However, being prepared makes arriving with your campervan feel liberating, as you typically bring along everything you need. Try, for example, the campsite at Høgni in Æðuvík, located right by the sea.

        There’s a good chance of running into the same fellow campers across different sites and in small villages. The authentic small campsites provide great opportunities for greeting each other and sharing tips and stories. For example, we repeatedly encountered a Chinese campervan that had travelled all the way from Beijing, engaging in interesting conversations each time we met.
        Have a great trip.

        Written by Jes Lindrum Brinch
        The travelogue was created in collaboration with Jes, who traveled to the Faroe Islands in his motorhome in the summer of 2024.

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