Travelogue

by Mette and Ole

Visiting the Faroe Islands with our camper

It was a huge surprise when earlier in the year I won a trip for two to the Faroe Islands with Smyril Line. The journey was the prize in a Facebook contest. Encountering the majestic landscapes and the welcoming people was a dream come true. 

The adventure began in late June 2022 on board Norröna in the tranquil waters of Hirtshals Port, Denmark, where my travel companion and I were roomed in an elegant luxury cabin. After a leisurely stroll around the ship we could look forward to an exquisite three-course meal at the gourmet restaurant Munkastova. Satiated and happy we walked back to the cabin where we crawled into bed and let the waves gently lull us to sleep. 

The seawards approach to the Faroe Islands was indescribably beautiful and idyllic. On the first evening we walked along the waterfront from Tórshavn Camping with its sublime view of Nólsoy Island. The next day we loaded up the camper with food and beverages and a journey of freedom and spontaneity could begin. We took it one day at a time and let the weather guide us to our experiences.

Colourful houses surrounded by cliffs

We visited places like the charming village Gjógv at the tip of the second-largest island in the archipelago, Eysturoy. The cosy hamlet looks like a postcard with its brightly coloured houses surrounded by cliffs. Another picturesque experience was the boat trip to the Vestmanna Bird Cliffs where we weaved in and out between steep looming cliff faces and deep grottoes carved by the surf over millions of years. We were lucky to spot northern fulmars, puffins and other marine birds on the cliff ledges. 

 

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    An exceptional nature experience

    On the very edge of the Faroe Islands lies the village Gásadalur, where we experienced the imposing waterfall Múlafossur, which tumbles straight off the cliffs into the ocean. An exceptional nature experience! Afterwards we had our lunch at Café Gásadalsgarður, which once a year is transformed into a slaughterhouse. The great Faroese food was enjoyed in beautiful surroundings with a view of the western island Mykines. Another place with magical panoramic views across Vágar and Vestmannasund is the mountain Sornfelli. It was the best view from a parking lot ever. But the fog caught up with us before sunset, so we drove along the stunning meandering road down the mountain again before nightfall. 

     

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      An explosion of the senses

      The Faroe Islands doesn’t merely offer stunning nature, but also impressive architecture, churches and cultural experiences. We visited the ruins of the cathedral in the old bishop’s seat, Kirkjubøur, as well as Christian’s Church in Klaksvík, where you can take in Joakim Skovgaard’s altarpiece, which has travelled from Viborg Cathedral, Denmark, to the National Gallery of Denmark until it found a home in the Faroe Islands. The church’s old baptismal font is a gift from Denmark. 

      We had an entirely unique experience when we drove through the Eysturoy Tunnel, which is an 11-kilometre-long subsea tunnel. Listening to the soundtrack from the tunnel’s opening all the impressions melted into a sensory explosion of music, lighting and dancing figures.

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        Culinary experiences in Tórshavn

        Tórshavn is a town in dazzling colours with charming grass-thatched wooden houses, old warehouses, a marina and the Nordic House, which is a Nordic culture centre beautifully located among rolling green hills. If you would like to explore the culinary options there is a plethora of choice in Tórshavn. One evening we dined at Katrina Christiansen, a cosy Faroese tapas restaurant located in a 17th century timber house. Another evening we ate at Víngarðurin, which doubles as a restaurant and a gallery. In both places the food was top notch. Overall the Fare Islands has a tranquil atmosphere and unique nature, and we experienced the marvellous hospitality everywhere. The crossing back to Denmark was great too. Dead calm seas again and plenty of time to enjoy the amenities, seascapes, food and atmosphere on board. 

        Thank you for making a dream come true!  

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